CRAGSECTOR: FONT SOLEIA: el Gruyère + Paret Gran
WHO: Francesc Majó, Jordi Vila, Raúl, "Lluís Llach"
ROUTES: Quan farem grau? 6b (E) / Ganyon 6b+ (P) / El baile de los colgaos 6c(P)
PHOTOS: Sergi Balaguer, Bi Zaes
SONG TRIP: Ode to my Family (CRANBERRIES)
With a good ham sandwich in the stomach, Bambino and I head to Sant Llorenç with very high motivation for the "homework" from "the center" (Center Hiking Masnou).
Just we see a dark gray mass that attacks La Mola (restaurant located at the top of the mountain, which can only be reached by foot). Rain? eye question: què vaaaa! jajajaja (we had our doubts about leaving Sant LLorenç dry in that adventure.)
Just we see a dark gray mass that attacks La Mola (restaurant located at the top of the mountain, which can only be reached by foot). Rain? eye question: què vaaaa! jajajaja (we had our doubts about leaving Sant LLorenç dry in that adventure.)
After the long climb, and accompanied by "Lluis Llach" and Crilín (Raul), heat the Gruyere. I do some "spinet" routes and I am strong enough to do "on sight" Ganyon 6b + (block route). St. Llorenç again puts me "on my side" and gives me the corresponding "colleja": the start of the route, where is the hard part I had no problems and I was very quiet, but coming to the chain, my forearms were tiret and was impossible to take a big hold good ... Again I need to work continuity, my large lack ... disappointment for the rest of the audience: but if you had already! -> Pozi ... but I am a supernenaza ...
With little eager to climb, I accompanied the "lolos" to the Gran Paret and l take a look to my projects that I have there: el baile de los colgaos 6c was the target of the day.
Bambino getting a 7b + (el senyor de los anillos) "on sight", a continuous inclined wall. And Vila studies his project that was already mounted.
And the turn was for me, I start well "the dance" but I quickly blow the arms ... what a bouldering route and what beauty movements! I was happy to overcome the fear of tape to tape, I promise the next day it will be done: I need it.
Bambino getting a 7b + (el senyor de los anillos) "on sight", a continuous inclined wall. And Vila studies his project that was already mounted.
And the turn was for me, I start well "the dance" but I quickly blow the arms ... what a bouldering route and what beauty movements! I was happy to overcome the fear of tape to tape, I promise the next day it will be done: I need it.
And in the meantime, a thick fog covers the whole yard of St. Llorenç, to the extent that I can't see Bambino climbing on the wall. A cold wet embedded in the bones ... dioooss, if we were an hour ago to almost 30 degrees!
So the climbing evening ends with a strange aftertaste .... returns the feeling that proress now is going back ... and I do not know what step I have to make to get ahead ...
[CAT]
Amb un bon entrepà de pernil a la panxolina, en Bambino i jo posem rumb cap a Sant Llorenç amb la motivació ben amunt per tatxar deures del centre (Centre Excursionista del Masnou).
Just arribant una gran massa gris fosca ataca La Mola (restaurant situat a la part superior del massís, on només s'hi pot accedir a peu). Plourà?? mirada circumstancial: qué vaaaa! jajajaja (teníem els nostres dubtes de sortir-ne secs d'aquella aventura.)
Després de la llarga pujada, i acompanyats per en "Lluis LLach" i en Crilín (Raúl), escalfem al Gruyere. Encadeno espinetes pendents i me veig amb forces per encadenar a vista Ganyon, un 6b+ amb sortida dura de bloc. Una atra vegada Sant llorenç me posa a "puesto", i me dóna la colleja corresponent: el pas dur de la via el faig sense problemes i molt tranquil·la, però arribant a reunió, els avantbraços rebenten i més impossible agafar ni tant sols un bon cazo... Una altra vegada veig la necessitat de treballar la continuitat, una GRAN mancança... decepció per la resta d’assistents: però si ja ho tenies! -> pozi... però sóc una supernenaza...
Amb poquetes ganes d’escalar més, acompanyo als “lolos” cap a la paret gran i aprofito per mirar-me els projectes que tinc allà: el baile de los colgaos 6c era l’objectiu del dia.
Bambino rebenta un 7b+ (el señor de los anillos) a vista de desplom continu i en Vila estudia el seu projecte que ja tenia montat.
I me toca el torn a mi, començo bé “el baile” però me rebenten ràpid els braços... quina via més bloquera i quins passacos més bonics! Contenta perquè vaig superant la por de cinta en cinta, me prometo que el següent dia cau: ho necessito.
I entre tant, una boira espesa tapa tot el pati de Sant llorenç, fins el punt que ni veig en Bambino escalar a la paret. Un fred humit s’incrusta als òssos... dios, si fa una hora estàvem a casi 30 graus!!
Així que la tarda escalatil acaba amb un regust estrany.... torna la sensació que el progués ara va cap enrera... i que no sé quin és el nou pas que haig de donar per tirar endavant...
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